What Is Your Favourite Sewing Machine ?

Necchi Supernova Automatica

This is a question I am asked quite often and it is like asking, “who is your favourite child?” or “which bird is your favourite?”.

If you click on the link to our permanent collection you will see quite a range of machines, with many hand cranks and treadles as I really do like human powered sewing.

Many of the examples we have collected are machines I consider to be the best in their class, historically significant, or just all around great performers, like my Kenmore 1931… which I often liken to a Toyota Camry as it is so well made and dead reliable. That and it was made at the peak of Sear’s production and relationship with Maruzen in Japan.

I love good design and engineering and am always fascinated when I discover a new machine like the new Necchi Supernova, I have bought, sold and serviced countless Necchi machines but the Supernova was the greatest machine they ever produced.

It is a technological masterpiece.

Happy sewing.

If Rolex Made Sewing Machines

If Ferrari made sewing machines they would have made the Necchi Supernova, but if Rolex had made sewing machines, they would have made the Elna 62C SU (Supermatic).

The machine is built like a Swiss watch with exceeding high tolerances and perfect balance and using one is something that has to be experienced, few machines run smoother, faster, or quieter.

The original Supermatic debuted in April of April 1952 and was a wonder of engineering and through constant improvements and refinements the Elna SU (Star series) machines debuted in 1971.

An old tech once told me that the 62C was the finest machine ever made, and he worked for a Bernina dealer.

These really were the pinnacle for Elna and stand as one of the finest sewing machines ever made, and perhaps the best machine you could have purchased in the early 1970’s… the Bernina 830 Record and Husqvarna 2000 series machines are and were exceptional but the Elna took sewing to the next level.

If I have one complaint about the 62C is that they are really fussy when it comes to being kept clean, the hook tolerances are so precise that they are very intolerant of lint and debris whereas most machines with oscillating hooks (ie Bernina) are much more tolerant of neglect, although they should all be kept clean and get brushed out and get a drop of oil after every project.

Necchi Supernova Automatica !

“And now, the Necchi push button Supernova marks the third and greatest advancement in modern sewing machines, and the third great advancement introduced by Necchi. The Supernova brings automatic sewing into a completely new era, because the skill is built right into the machine!” – Necchi Supernova manual – 1955

I wonder if the guys on the other side of the Alps might have taken issue with their Italian friend’s claims as the Swiss made Elna Supermatic was also an “automatica” although according to Necchi, these ran “like a phonograph”, as opposed to the Necchi’s ability to customize their “playlist” of cam selections.

With that being said, this is a machine we have wanted to add to the collection for many years and unlike many of the straight stitch Necchi models, they are quite uncommon, probably due to their stratospheric price tag back in 1955. When sold in a cabinet they cost the equivalent of nearly $5000.00 when you adjust for inflation, and even back then cost as much as half a year’s house payments.

Besides having fixed cams for specified patterns it also came with a rack of cams and holders that a user could customize to create their own pattern selections which is rather unique, and the machine is stretch capable like an Elna Supermatic which really set this machine apart, that and the incredible build quality.

The cam set with the long handle is for making button holes and it works rather well to select stitches and run things in reverse. the cover to the parts case has a selector wheel that shows you how to build up cam sets for specific stitches, and a good third of the manual describes many of the stitches that this machine is capable of.

She will be joining the permanent collection here as these are a notable example of 20th century machine development, and if you look at Japanese machine of the early 1960’s it is not hard to see where they got a lot of ideas.

Decided to name her “Gina” after another famous Italian… here she is after being serviced in our shop, most of which involved cleaning and oiling as there were no significant mechanical issues.

Cleaning the under carriage…
Needle bar and presser assembly…
The presser bar and needle bar were especially filthy…

Singer 115

1917 Singer 115

I am always amused when I go to google some info on something and find myself being directed back to my own website.

I now have several of these superlative machines in the collection with the 1917 model having somewhat better decals but from a functional standpoint, both are as smooth as warm butter on glass.

https://institchessewing.ca/2019/01/06/singer-the-115/

Touch and Throw ?

Singer 600 Auto Reel

In the mid sixties Singer was changing a great deal and freshened up the look of their machines with a sleeker body, and different controls, but underneath it was the same old dependable design you see in the 400 and 500 series machines. For the most part.

The Singer 611G looks virtually identical but differs in that it used a class 66 drop in bobbin while the revolutionary new 600 Touch and Sew, or Auto Reel had a bobbin that stayed in the machine, and wound in place.

At a glance it can be hard to tell these two machines apart unless you know what to look for, the 611G has a white cap on the upper guide and the top guide is plastic instead of metal.

Singer 611G

Often derided as being unreliable, it was because aside from the auto winding feature, later versions of the T&S started to use plastic/nylon gears in the drive train and over time or through misadventure these broke.

The early models still used the same hand lapped metal gears, probably because Singer was still producing them for the other 6xx series machines and as yet, had not started their slow decline into mediocrity.

As a machinist I really appreciate the workmanship in these machines, the arm under the gear is part of the auto winding mechanism and in later models, these changed location and you guessed it, used more plastic.

This early 600 will be joining our permanent collection as it is historically significant, and because it runs beautifully and makes a great stitch, in addition to being able to chain stitch which was a feature the T&S models made standard.

This machine might still outlast me…

We have several early Touch and Sew machines in the shop that are available, a 600e and a 626 Special which are both metal geared models, if you are interesting in adding one to your herd drop us a line.

Coming soon… Pfaff 362

Pfaff has built many exemplary machines and the pinnacle of their 20th century production came with the 362 “Stop Matic”, aside from the plastic controls which are prone to cracking, the machine is an absolute marvel of German engineering.

This example is in spectacular condition (perfect dials) but has not been used since 2004, when it’s original owner passed away, Upon inspection the machine was pristine and spotless which suggests it may have been cleaned and serviced before going into a long retirement.

It comes with an original Pfaff cabinet with a vertical lift assist, which makes lowering the machine for storage, or raising it up to it’s sewing positions effortless, an insert for the table makes the machine a flatbed, while raising it up offers the flexibility of a free arm.

The machine came with it’s manual, accessories, and stitch wheel which shows you how to set the machine to do all of the stitches it is capable of. I have an original Pfaff tin for the accessories and I might even find an original sales receipt when I go through all of the drawers. These machines were very expensive in the 1960’s, selling for the equivalent of $5000.00

There is very little do do cosmetically on this machine but she is a wee bit sticky, so we will go through everything and have her up and running perfectly once her many moving parts get lubricated.

Almost tempted to keep this one, but think she will be enjoyed by someone who really appreciates some spectacular engineering and would appreciate the beautiful cabinet and lift.

Husqvarna… the 21 Automatic.

Husqvarna 21 – Permanent Collection

Most people associate Husqvarna with chain saws and perhaps motorcycles but their history of being a sewing machine manufacturer goes back to the late 1800’s, after the need for arms waned the artisans in the industrial areas of Sweden turned their talents to making other things, among them were sewing machines.

And they made a fine sewing machine… during the early 1900’s they did as many European companies did and copied or imitated the Singer 15 and VS machines but after World War 2 they became extremely innovative and introduced a new series of machines with the 21 being the crown jewel.

Said by some to be the finest machine ever made and it really has few flaws or weaknesses… the controls are ergonomic and easy to use, the machine stitches perfectly and is capable of 20 different stitch patterns (via cams), the free arm is beautifully designed, and one feature that few other manufacturers offered was an actual low gear reduction.

These machines will sew a bumper on a Volvo and look beautiful doing it too.

The Weather Outside Is Frightful…

Pearl… supervising.

We have been experiencing some rather extreme cold this week, but as we are on our Christmas break we’ve been staying inside and staying cozy and working on little personal projects like my Wheeler and Wilson D9 treadle I picked up in October.

As always, Pearl needs to supervise and provide moral support as at 2 ounces she is just not big enough to help remove frozen clutch knobs on 120 year old machines and will say I was successful in doing that, and also managed to find a set screw for it.

Very few machines made can sew as smoothly and beautifully as a Wheeler and Wilson D9.

Besides puttering around in the shop I have been busy in the kitchen… have been churning butter and making soup. Mulligatawny is a wonderful spicy chicken soup that is perfect for cold winter days.

The butter press came from my aunt who used to have a small dairy and made and sold butter in her community, it is probably as old as me.

Freshly Churned Butter
Mulligatawny Soup

2021 is almost over and in a few days we will be ringing in the new year, the weather is supposed to warm up to normal temperatures (which is still below freezing) and think we will be able to get out and sit around the fire with some tasty hot beverages.

We’ll be back in the shop January 3rd, there will be a good number of beautiful machines coming up for sale and I will be working on designing and making some new products in the workshop.

Wheeler and Wilson D9 treadle

Merry Christmas

Christmas will soon be upon us and we are hoping all our friends, family, and customers have a joyous holiday.

We will be away from December 24th until January 3rd on a much needed break as it has been pretty non stop here for months.

Looking forward to the new year, and wishing everyone health and happiness.